Mystical Myanmar – Visiting the Temples of Bagan

From the North Shore Guide to the world outside and written by Andrew Renton, contributing writer. This article is published solely to promote tourism and travel to Myanmar.

My tricycle driver stands over his pedals for the uphill climb. Like all Burmese he is as thin as a wisp and I marvel that his lunghi (sarong) doesn’t catch in the chain. He constantly fingers the huge silver bell to flaunt his luck. He has snagged a foreigner and, for now, all is well in his world.

I arrive on the afternoon ferry from Mandalay, just as the sun is setting over the receeding banks of the Irawaddy River. There is no dock. I teeter along a narrow gangplank into the hands of frenzied touts pushing everything from guides to guesthouses.

The May Kha Lar Guesthouse offers rooms which are simple but immaculate. For $10 CDN a night I have aircon, satellite TV, private bath and a “two-egg” breakfast served on the upper balcony. I also have the invaluable services of Miss Cho.

“You will need a bicycle or a horse cart, unless of course you plan to visit the temples by foot?” She exudes a no-nonsense charm that commands respect from locals and guests alike.

Two thousand temples and stupas cover an area of 80 square kilometres. Another 2,000 lie in ruins, the victims of time and looters. Many date back 1,000 years to when Bagan was the capital of Myanmar was in transition from Hinduism to Theravada Buddhism.

King Anawrahta ascended the Burmese throne in 1044. He began a lavish building programme which was continued by his heirs for another 250 years. In 1287, Kublai Khan’s marauding Mongols overran the city.

According to Marco Polo: “The king caused these towers to be erected to commemorate his magnificence and for the good of his soul. They form one of the finest sights in the world.” They still do!

Since my last visit in 1987, Nyaung U has become the new base for budget tourists. The government forcibly moved residents of Old Bagan to a field several kilometres away, flattening and removing any sign of past habitation. Doubtless a political move carried out just prior to the fruitless 1990 election of Aung San Suu Kyi still under house arrest in Yangon.

9 a.m. My driver is waiting. I prop myself up on a floral mattress and we clip clop along dusty lanes. We pass a peanut plantation. A man perches precariously at the apex of a tripod built from three bamboo poles bound at the nexk by strands of rattan. He shakes peanuts from freshly harvested plants onto a sheet of gunnysack.

Tin speaks good English. He and his wife Kin Kin support an extended family of 13. They all share a palm-thatched bamboo hut. She leaves for the market at 5 a.m. to sell Shan noodle soup to early risers.

Tin rents the horse cart (which turns out to be an authentic pony and trap) on a daily basis from the owner. He urges it on with a series of gentle clicks and grunts, rarely using the long-tailed whip. He gives ma brief history of each temple of Myanmar before sending me off to inspect. Not bad service for around $10 CDN a day.

In 1975 a major earthquake shook the area. UNESCO funding saved the day and restored the Anada Pahto, the oldest of the great temples of Myanmar. It houses a 30 foot Buddha hewn from a single teak log. Restoration continues on many others.

WE putter from one extraordinary monument to the next, dodging coachloads of French tourists and German cyclists. The spire of the Mahabodhi Paya is shaped like a pyramid, each face dotted with tiny niches holding hundreds of seated Buddhas.

Inside the dark passages of the Pahtothamya, I pay a toothless old lady to show me murals dating back from 1084.

Sunset is breathtaking. The sky turns from deep gold to darkening shades of pink. Temples slowly evaporate into the haze of the night. The street is suddenly alive with people and flickering BBQs. Hawkers prepare quail eggs, skewers of meat and deliciously crisp crepes brimming with onions and tomatoes.

Miss Cho demands a blow-by-blow account of the day. “Did Tin show you this templae and that stupa?” “Where did he take you at sunset?” “Tomorrow will be better. I will tell him to take you further. They are lazy you know!”

”You are lucky. Tonight there is a puppet show at The Myayadana Restaurant. I will arrange a tricycle for you. Later he will take you to a Pwe in the next village.” Burmese love street theatre and an opportunity to watch transvestite actors strut their stuff.

In this extraordinary corner of an outrageously beautiful, if tarnished, country, I feel a warm glow of contentment. I am in the capable hands of Miss Cho. Myanmar is surely the most fascinating country in South East Asia despite a despotic government. Golden stupas gleam from every hilltop. The one-legged rowers of Inle Lake are unique. Festivals happen around every corner. Smiles are contagious.

When weighing your decision to visit, remember that many, like Miss Cho and Tin, rely on tourism to buy food and medication for their families.

If you go to Myanmar:

Getting there: Most Canadians will fly to Bangkok then take a one hour flight ($100 CDN) on Bangkok Airways to Yangon.
Visas to Myanmar: Necessary for all travellers
Myanmar Embassy: 902/903 – 85, Range Road, Ottawa ON KIN; telephone 816.613.232.6446 or email meott@magma.ca or the Myanmar Embassy in Bangkok for same day service. Take three passport photos.
Getting Around: car and driver (around $40 CAD per day). Rickshaw. Bus. Pickup truck. Shared taxi. Plane or train (wonderful though ancient and unreliable).
Safety: Myanmar is as safe as it gets. Don’t talk politics. You can get people (and yourself) in trouble.
When to go: November to May is the dry season and less humid.
Money: Take clean US dollar bills.

Hotel Lindrum is Melbourne’s Premier Boutique Hotel Accommodation

Located in the heart of Melbourne Hotel Lindrum is comfortable, understated, luxurious and conveniently located so that travelers to Australia and the beautiful city of Melbourne spend more time relaxing and enjoying the sites and sounds of the city.

A member of the Select Hotels & Resorts International, the Melbourne Hotel Lindrum and boutique accommodations is located in the province of Victoria in Australia. As one of the hot travel destinations in Australia, Melbourne is a multicultural city rich in history, culture, natural wonders, resort destinations and boutique five star accommodations such as the Hotel lindrum in Melbourne. Exactly how you dreamed, the hotel guest suites are both comfortable and spacious and the Hotel Lindrum Melbourne Australia hotel staff are friendly and helpful. Whatever your plans are in Melbourne, the boutique luxury Hotel Lindrum is a perfect getaway for both travelers to Australia’s magical city as well as for business people who need a quiet and splendid 5 star accommodation for their corporate trips. Just minutes away from the Melbourne Hotel Lindrum are many of the city’s finest restaurants, theatres, shopping and of course the Melbourne Cricket Ground. Also within the business and cultural districts of the city, the Hotel Lindrum Melbourne provides some of the most spectacular hotel facilities and amenities that you could ever wish for as a business traveler or vacationer to Australia

The Guestrooms and Suites

Rich woods and ambient colour palettes grace every boutique luxury guest suite with heavy carpets and intimate spaces so that you feel like you’re at home while spending your travel vacation Australia holiday in the most unique and sophisticated Melbourne Hotel Lindrum boutique guestrooms. There are four types of residence suites available at the Hotel Lindrum Melbourne Australia which are perfect for travelers and business people alike. More Details about the Luxury Accommodations at the Melbourne Hotel Lindrum Australia
The boutique accommodations at the Melbourne Hotel Lindrum five –star guest rooms also features the Superior Suite which has the same in room facilities as the Standard Room but is larger at thirty three square metres in living space. The third type of hotel boutique 5 star accommodation in Australia’s Hotel Lindrum in Melbourne is the Deluxe Room which have all the standard in room amenities and features as the above guest suites, but also stunning views of many sites including the Cricket Grounds, Botanical Gardens and the beautiful Melbourne Park. Charming, warm and inviting, the boutique luxury Deluxe Suite at the Hotel Lindrum Melbourne Australia travel dream vacations are the ideal place to stay during your trip. Elegant appointments, large bedrooms and windows that provide lots of natural lighting, the Junior Suite is the largest and most exclusive hotel guest suites at the Hotel Lindrum in Melbourne Australia.

Boutique Australia Melbourne hotel facilities and services

The Melbourne Hotel Lindrum boutique five star accommodations and guest suites will provide hotel twenty four hour reception in the lobby entrance in addition to room service any time. All guests and delegates at the boutique Hotel Lindrum Melbourne Australia travel holidays will also have complimentary wireless internet access in the lobby area in addition to access to the fireplace lounge and billiard table games room. For business people, the Melbourne boutique Hotel Lindrum luxury accommodations will provide a fully operational and appointed boardroom for meetings, conferences and corporate functions as well as rooms for disabled persons. The Hotel Lindrum in Melbourne also features a health club and fitness center near by and all luxury hotel guests will have same day laundry and valet services for rent. The Australian Room at the Hotel Lindrum Melbourne is a perfect location to host those smaller corporate retreats of ten or fewer staff. You can download a fact sheet of the Australian Room at Hotel Lindrum Melbourne Australia online at hotellindrum.com.au/facilities/conference.html.

Rates and Reservations

Hotel Lindrum Melbourne has a large connection and affiliation with corporations and companies, so preferred rates are possible. You can contact Renee, the Group Sales & marketing Manager for Hotel Lindrum Conferences at 61 3 9668 1111. For any other reservation bookings for the boutique Hotel Lindrum Melbroune Australia for your travel bookings, please contact 61 3 9668 1111. The Rack Rates for the Melbourne luxury Hotel Lindrum five star accommodation is Standard ($360), Superior ($400), Deluxe ($410) and the Junior Suite ($450). For boutique 5 star Melbourne luxury Hotel Lindrum corporate rates, the Standard guest room is $225, Superior Room is $265, Deluxe at $275 and the Junior Suite is $315. There is also a current listing of Event Rates at the Hotel Lindrum in Melbourne Australia and you can check it out online at the Hotel Lindrum web site at hotellindrum.com.au/rates/index.php. For the online booking engine for Australia Melbourne Hotel Lindrum, please visit reservations.synxis.com/LBE/REZ.aspx?Hotel=12640&Src=LindrumWeb.

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The Action Eight for Phuket Thailand

Kerrie Hall reveals eight exciting ways to get the adrenaline pumping in Phuket Thailand in the Fah Thai March and April 2007 edition.

Endless summers, fabulous seaviews, beachside dining, wonderful sunsets and a laid-back lifestyle are exactly what makes PHuket a true tropical paradise. But while this is heavenly for the most part, what is life without an adrenaline rush once in a while?

Ever wanted to dive with turtles, learn to surf, be a boogie-queen, or go on a jungle adventure? You’ve come to the right place. Seize the moment and live your dreams with one of these eight exciting experiences awaiting you in Phuket Thailand.

1. Martial Art Mix

An explosion of worldwide interest in the King’s sport of muay thai, or Thai boxing, is attracting many international visitors to Phuket’s training gyms where experts run professional courses in the centuries-old martial art. Originally used on the battlefield in male combat, muay thai is also attracting a growing number of females fans interested in learning for fitness and competition. Students enrol in courses ranging from one week to several months that, along with personal techniques and kickboxing sessions, also include gym workouts to increase body strength. Schedules are serious in the Phuket Thailand gyms, but still leave plenty of time for enjoying other attractions in the region of Phuket.

How to: Mixed Martial Arts and Muay Thai Training Centre (www.mmaphuket.com) and Phuket Muay Thai Camp (www.phuket-muay-thai.com).

2. Surf’s Up in Phuket

Popular with the surf fraternity during monsoon season (April to November) when currents, winds and swells descent on the west coast of Phuket, the beach scene gets funky with local and international board-riders and boogiers hanging out for waves. Although not of the mind blowing calibre raved about on the international circuit, the local surf scene does attract a decent crowd for fun of the sport and is a great place to learn. Several surf competitions in Phuket are held each year from Surin in the north to Kalim and the south of the island at Kata Beach. Nai Harn is also a popular surf spot during these months on Phuket, with a legion of surfers and boogie-boarders catching some great waves.

How to: Learn to surf or rent a board at Phuket Surf School (phuketsurf.com) located at the southern end of Kata Beach.

3. Jungle Jaunts on Phuket

Nature lover will delight in the variety of wildlife found in the tropical jungles of the Andaman region and within easy reach of Phuket Thailand, including the myriad of national parks located just over Sarasin Bridge on the mainland in Phang Nga province from PHuket. Drive yourself or take a tour, but be sure to pack a swimsuit, as many feature stunning waterfalls and natural pools for a refreshing dip after exploring the nature trails. For the serious and hardy trekkers, Khao Sok National Park is a few hours drive from Phuket Thailand and offers hiking trails deep into the jungle where untouched beauty abounds. A wealth of exotic animal and bird speices can be sighted, such as wild elephants, macaques, gibbons, hornbills and perhaps even an elusive tiger.

How to: Paddle Asia (www.paddleasia.com) offers a wide range of extreme adventures in Phuket, including hiking, rafting, and mountain climbing.

4. Kayaking in Phuket

The amazing waters of Phuket and the region are easily explored by kayak. Sea kayaking, in particular offers many great experiences including the chance to explore offshore islands, karsts and caves. Head to Yanui in Phuket; this is one of the most scenic coastal regions in the island’s south- with gorgeous surrounding beaches and uninhabited islands nearby, plus a rich marine life to view with a snorkel.

How to: Kayaks are available for hire by the hour from a beach operator at Yanui Phuket. John Gray Sea Canoe (www.johngray-seacanoe.com) offers accredited educational, environmental tours in Phang Nga Bay and beyond.

5. Dive In

The elusive Green Sea Turtle, weighing up to 200kg, is the largest hardshell sea turtle found in tropical, subtropical and warm temperate waters off of Phuket. Protected by the Endangered Species Act, it can be sighted in Phang Nga Bay, the Similan Islands and occasionally Phuket’s west coast. This marine species brings excitement to any dive expedition in operation around the Adaman region of Phuket and along with the amazing coral reefs found here, make this home to some of the world’s best dive sites.

How to: One of Thailand’s oldest and most famed dive operators is Fantasea Divers who run expeditions off Phuket, into Burma and beyond (www.fantasea-divers.com).

6. Hold Tight in Phuket

An emerging activity for thrill-seekers bound for Phuket during monsoon time is kite-surfing – also known as fly-surfing or kite-boarding – the art of jumping waves on a wakeboard and flying through the air propelled by wind and a hovering sail. A rapidly growing sport across the world, many enthusiasts travel with their own equipment and can be sen ripping along the waters at Karon Phuket and off Rawai Beach Phuket Thailand.

How To: Kite Thailand (www.kitethailand.com) has a base at the south end of Rawai Beach at a restaurant called Baan Had Rawai, where lessons for kite-surfing are held during high season in a large shallow sandy area ideal for learning this exciting pastime.

7. Phuket Beach Digs and Bumps

Recent host of the SWATCH-FIVB World Tour Women’s Professional Beach Volleyball Tournament and other popular competitions, Phuket has witnessed a rise in the popularity of this energetic sport, with volleyball nets on most major beaches of Phuket. Many Thai locals are now forming teams for friendly matches and anyone is welcome to join in the Phuket beach action and fun. The activities start when the day cools down, sometime in the late afternoon, when volleyball matches can be found on the sand at Surin, Patong, Karon, and Nai Harn. It’s a great way to meet new friends on Phuket and indulge in fun fitness – plus, the waves are right there for a quick dip afterwards.

How to: Phuket Sports and Tennis now welcomes volleyball enthusiasts to its new international standard volleyball court at Rawai in southern Phuket.

8. On the Water in Phuket Thailand

Boating is one of Phuket’s most popular adventure activities for visitors, and the variety of watercraft available for charter is astounding, although usually, the tour itineraries are set on dedicated courses that don’t deviate from its path along Phuket’s shores. One new luxury operator in Phuket, OmniMarine (www.omnitrips.com) however now offers exclusive experiences designed for the individual aboard a range of imported European vessels. Itineraries are specilised to cater for every whim. It might include a half-day outer island trip on a super-speed, six-passenger Silver Clour or overnight cruising of the Phuket’s Similan Islands Marine National Park aboard a private, fully-catered Ferretti motor yacht. Those who prefer the buzz of being at the helm couldn’t be in a better place to learn. Home of the King’s Cup, Asia’s largest sailng regatta, Phang Nga Bay Regatta in Phuket, Phuket Race Week and other regular yachting events, this part of the Thai cost boasts some of the world’s best sailing waters. With a growing number of marinas in Phuket on the island an more planned for the Andaman region, the opportunities for sailing adventures look set to abound.

How to: The popular Sunsail Phuket (www.sunsailthaildand.com) runs a training school for novices thorugh to competitive racing and Yachtsmaster level.

The Golden Door Health Retreat – Elysia Boutique Hotel Accommodations in NSW

In the beautiful Pokolbin Hunter Valley area of New South Wales, Australia, travel holidays and vacation boutique accommodations have never been so luxurious and impeccable as The Golden Door Health Retreat – Elysia Hotel Resort.

With incredible views of the Brokenback Mountains as well as the NSW wine vineyards, the seventy four villa Golden Door Health Retreat – Elysia resort hotel destination is within the Hunter Valley beautiful Pokolbin area of New South Wales. Stylish and eleganty appointed villa estate guest rooms and suites at the Elysia Resort Gold Door Health Retreat provides one to three bedroom luxury 5 star accommodations in this all purpose health and wellness retreat that revitalizes and revives your soul, mind and body. The Spa Hotel at The Golden Door Health Retreat – Elysia Spa health resort retreat provide only a minimum stay of two days and with the utmost in flexibility, knowledgeable and friendly staff, and adventure travel Australia opportunities in the Hunter Valley NSW area, The Golden Door Health Retreat – Elysia Spa resort destination has grown exponentially in popularity over the course of the past few years. Located in Australia Pokolbin’s New South Wales province, the boutique and 5 star Elysia Golden Door Health Retreat and wellness spa is not only for Australians, but for many international tourists and vacationers to Australia.

You can also take part in the world famous Golden Door Program during your stay at the luxury five star The Golden Door Health Retreat – Elysia Spa and Wellness resort as well. Tonnes of awards and accolades have been awarded to the Elysia Hotel Spa at the Golden Door Wellness Retreat and for good reason. Spa and Wellness Menu at The Golden Door Health Retreat – Elysia Hunter Valley Australia

If you are in for an amazing spa experience at the boutique Elysia Spa Hotel and Golden Door Wellness Health Retreat resort destination, then plan you trip early and check out the many different spa and massage treatments offered by the incredibly experienced and knowledgeable spa staff. At The Hunter Valley five star boutique Golden Door Health Retreat – Elysia Spa and Wellness resort, you will experience a facility that’s purpose is only to pamper and revitalize you with an extensive array of services that include products by BABOR skin, body and spa care, facial, hands and feet, body treatments as well as body massage and healing techniques, Elysia Spa Hotel packages, The Golden Door Health Retreat – Elysia Spa Wellness Luxury in Pokolbin Hunter Valley NSW waxing and tinting, spa to share with a family member or lover, make-up by BABOR, wellness services, physical and health assessments by professionals as well as private activity sessions like personal training, yoga, pilates, tennis as well as meditation. There is something for both men and women at Pokolbin luxury boutique The Golden Door Health Retreat – Elysia Spa Wellness center and the spa and wellness menu is available online at the luxury boutique 5 star Golden Door Retreat Elysia web site at goldendoor.com.au/default.asp?action=article&ID=59. There are two Golden Door Health Retreat – Elysia Spa Wellness center packages that include Spa Fusion for two hundred and ninety dollars for three hours as well as the Golden Door spa Escape package at four hundred and forty dollars and lasts for a scrumptious four hours.

Golden Door Health Retreat

You will have cable tv as well as DVD and spa cuisine delivered to your door in addition to relaxing spaces and luxurious spa bathrooms at the five star villa boutique hotel guestrooms and luxury accommodations at the Pokolbin Hunter Valley Golden Door Health Retreat – Elysia Spa Wellness resort. Australia spa destination resorts and retreats have never been this modern, sophisticated and affordable and the Golden Door Health Retreat – Elysia Spa Wellness center accommodation villas will also provide all the standard resort amenities too.

Contact info

This Australia Health and Wellness Retreat in Hunter Valley NSW is located at Thompsons Road in Pokolbin NSW 2320. For reservations and villa bookings at the Golden Door Elysia Health Resort and wellness spa, you can contact 1800 212 011 or 61 2 4993 8500. You can also email reservations@elysia.com.au for reservations or programcoord@elysia.com.au for the health and wellness spa coordinator or info@elysia.com.au for general inquiries. New updates and packages are located at http://www.goldendoor.com.au/default.asp?action=category&ID=20 at the Pokolbin Hunter Valley NSW Elysia Golden Door Health Retreat and Wellness Spa. For rates and reservations online at the Golden Door Health Retreat – Elysia Spa Resort, you can do so at http://www.goldendoor.com.au/default.asp?action=category&ID=21.

Preserving Hoi An Vietnam

It was once one of Japan’s and the world’s most important trade centers. A key port on the ancient silk route. Hoi An traded ceramics textiles, fragrant woods, copper coins, and ironware between merchants from as far as northern Asia, the Middle East and Europe.

Written by Raymond Wilkinson for the March/April Heritage Magazine for Vietnam Airlines and published with permission to promote travel to Hoi An and Vietnam.

At the height of relations in the mid 17th century, as many as 1,000 Japanese traders built their homes, warehouses, and even cemeteries in a special treaty quarter in the Vietnamese port of Hoi An. They became advisors to Vietnamese emperors and married into the imperial family. But when the Tokugawa shogunate banned overseas maritime activities in 1635, the Japanese presence in Hoi An went into sharp decline. By the end of the century there were only four or five families living along the beautiful sweeping bays and inlets of central Vietnam. As trade patterns and global commerce shifted, Hoi An went into decline. By the time of the American War, Hoi An was a sleepy backwater town known only to a few cultural experts and intrepid travelers.

In recent years the town has enjoyed a renaissance and revived strong ties with Japan. In 1999 it was declared a World Heritage Site in recognition of its outstanding cultural and architectural importance. Increasing numbers of tourists from around the world explore the town’s cobblestone streets and indulge in nearby golden beaches. Japanese, Thai and Hollywood movies have used Hoi An’s beautiful wooden buildings as exotic backdrops, one of the latest films being “The Quiet American” starring Michael Caine.

The Shows Women’s University in Tokyo has been active for more than a decade in Hoi An and the Japan International Cooperation Agency (JICA) has sent a series of experts to work with the town’s Center for Monuments Management and Preservation in restoring an estimated 1,107 listed structures. Much of the focus in Hoi An has been on the Japanese Bridge: a serene, curved structure of wood and tile with a covered roof and a small temple at its center. The bridge was once the entrance to the city’s Japanese Quarter in Hoi An.

As tourists from Germany and Australia clambered noisily across the Hoi An narrow walkway recently, Japanese architectural expert Chikako Suzuki ran her fingers across the ancient beams and noted that the joints in some areas were now several centimetres apart. The gnarled wooden planks inside the temple also sloped at a gradual angle. In its old age, the Hoi An bridge is shifting and slowly sinking.

“It is not an urgent crisis, but without proper attention, the bridge could eventually collapse,” Suzuki said. The government of Hoi An and city, as well as foreign experts, have been exploring ways to preserve this most important structure, and according to Suzuki “work could start next year, but it is very delicate.”

An architect by training, after doing research in Nepal and Tunisia, Suzuki joined the Japan Overseas Cooperation Volunteers (JOCV) and arrived in Vietnam in January 2006. A native of Kikari, town in Yamahuchi Prefecture, she will stay in Hoi An until December 2007. In that same year JICA will send a second volunteer, a specialist in environmental education, to join her.

“The Japanese connection is very easy to understand,” says Nhugen Duc Minh, deputy director of the Hoi An Center for Monuments Management and Preservation. “We have had a strong bond since the 17th century and this is merely a continuation. We highly value both the Japanese expertise and financial support.”

In recent years, the most obvious impact on Hoi An has been tourism. With the arrival of thousands of tourists in Hoi An and the construction of modern resorts on the outskirts of town, Hoi An has changed dramatically. Old wooden Chinese and Japanese buildings and French colonial houses have transformed into restaurants, cafes, souvenier shops, and clothing boutiques. “Tourism in Hoi An itself is not a threat to the city,” Nguyen Duc Minh said, “but the overspill and side affects of tourism are potential hazards.”

Suzuki and her Vietnamese colleagues have distributed questionnaires to tourists and local citizens, lectured at schools, and scheduled seminars in Hoi An. Recently, she organized Japanese volunteers working in Vietnam and thirty some locals to collect rubbish from the local river, to clean up the waterway, to identify specific pollutants in Hoi An, and to brainstorm ways to combat that pollution. Suzuki also keeps a close eye on renovation work in Hoi An being done on some of the town’s oldest buildings.

“Workmen can sometimes by sloppy,” Suzuki explained. “They are not worried about preserving the wood in these buildings in Hoi An. They just want to get the work done as quickly as possible, open a shop or restaurant, and make money from the tourists. We have to emphasize that this work is to protect Vietnam’s precious cultural heritage for the entire world to enjoy for decades to come.”